Monday, 20 April 2009

Al Batinah region

The Batinah Coast region runs from Khatma al Malaha in the north, to Ras al Hamra in the Governorate of Muscat. The coastal plain is approximately 25km wide and lies at the foot of the Western Hajar Mountains. After Muscat, it is the most densely inhabited area in Oman. The Batinah has been cultivated for many years with a variety of food crops. The area has a history of maritime and industrial activity. Sohar, the main city of trade centuries ago, has a new port under construction, being built at a cost of RO120million. The city is renowned for its copper deposits, and archaeological evidence points to copper extraction being carried out 5000 years ago. There are still three copper mines in operation in Sohar with over 18 million tons of copper deposits. It is an attractive region for tourists due to its clean, safe beaches and the plethora of archaeological features.
One of the first references to 'Sohar' is in the work of historian, Yaqut al Hamawi who implies that the city took its name in the 6th century AH from a descendent of Noah: Sohar bin Adam bin Sam bin Noah. When the Palestinian Arab scholar Muqadisi visited the city in 10th century AH he described it as a "flourishing city with a large number of people living there. It is a beautiful city with a comfortable life, …and its mosque overlooks the sea…the Mihrab (indicator of the direction for prayers) changes colour because it is covered in copper…".
The Sohar Fort is one of the most prominent features in the city and was built between the 13th and 14th century AD by the 'Emirs of Hormuz'. An escape tunnel runs from inside the fort to the wilayat of Buraimi, 10km to the west. It was used as a route to obtain reinforcements and supplies during sieges. Sohar has many wad
is with running water, such as Wadi Hibi, Wadi Ahin and Wadi al Jizzi, and beautiful public parks. It is an area that is under tourist development and a number of deluxe hotels have now been built.
The wilayat of Rustaq is in the Western Hajar, at the south of the Batinah. Rustaq was once the capital of Oman, during the era of Imam Nasir bin Murshid al Ya'arubi. Rustaq fort, built four centuries prior to the dawn of Islam in Oman, is an imposing structure built on three levels, containing separate houses, an armoury, a mosque and four towers. The tallest tower stands over 18.5m high and has a diameter of 6m. Hazm Fort is an outstanding example of Omani Islamic architecture and was built in 1711AD. The fort's roof is built on columns, and contains no wooden supports. Its walls can withstand great impact, being no less than 3m thick.
Rustaq is an area of healing, warm springs, the most notable being Ain al Kasafa. Its water runs at 45degC and is regarded as a cure for rheumatism and skin diseases due to its sulphur content. There are three popular wadis to visit: Wadi Bani Ghafar; Wadi al Sahtan and Wadi Bani Auf. In addition, the mountains are pitted with caves such as Al Sanaqha Cave with its own subterranean springs. One of the main occupations in Rustaq is beekeeping. Pure Omani honey is a most sought-after commodity an
d is of the highest quality. Fruits such as pomegranates, apricots, plums and grapes are grown on the foothills of Jebel al Akhdar and brought to Rustaq for sale.
Wilayat Shinas is the town furthest north in the Batinah region. It has a number of castles and forts, such as Shinas fort and Rasa al Malah castle. Shinas Park is notable for its forest of mangrove (qurum) trees and the wadis of al Ghaliliya and al Aswad have been developed into tourist locations. Many fruits and vegetables are grown in Shinas, such as bananas, mangoes, tomatoes and lemons.
Wilayat Liwa lies north of Sohar and has a lively market place where local produce and fresh fish are sold. The fortress of Awla Ya'rab, built of white clay, is located on the beach in the Harmul area. The area also has a number of rural features such as springs, falaj and caves: Ain al Azam cave faces the creek and is surrounded by mangrove trees, while Jebel Abu Kahif is home to some of the largest caves in the wilayat.
Saham is located between the coast and the Hajar Mountains and the wilayat has plenty of fresh running water and spectacular mountain scenery. It is perhaps most famous for the area known as Seih al Taybat, which is where His Majesty, Sultan Qaboos holds one of his royal camps whilst on his annual inspection of the regions. The camps provide an opportunity for the residents of the region to discuss their concerns for their towns and villages with the Sultan and listen to his advice and directives. Saham is also famous for camel and horse racing, which are popular holiday and weekend sports.
Wilayat al Khaboura is a mountainous region, which is honeycombed with caves, too numerous to name. It has a number of towers, forts and castles, the most imposing being Bu Said castle. Sugar cane, wheat, dates and cotton are grown in the wilayat and the main occupations of the inhabitants include leather tanning, weaving and boat building.
The wilayat of Suwaiq is characterised by its widespread agriculture. There are numerous plantations across the area where herbs, bananas, mangoes and citrus fruits are grown. It is an area famous for bull fighting. Suwaiq has its own forts and castles and four springs, the most scenic being located in the area of Wadi al Jahawar.
Nakhl is located in the south of the Batinah, at the foot of Jebel al Akhdar in the Western Hajar Mountains. Upon entry to Nakhl, the most prominent feature is the fort, which is built on a 200m high craggy outcrop. The fort has been extended over the centuries and in 1990, was restored by Sultan Qaboos. There are a number of hot springs in Nakhl, one of which is situated close to the fort: Thuara spring is a very popular location with locals and visitors alike. It is a highly important source of water to the residents of Nakhl, as it irrigates around 90% of the land. Wadi Abyad is in the wilayat and contains deep, warm 'blue pools', so coloured due to the mineral deposits in the water.
The main industry in the wilayat of Wadi Ma'awal is pottery, which is still handcrafted. Safala fort is located in the town of Afi and the wilayat has used it as its emblem. Other handicrafts in the area include palm weaving, the most notable items made being fans.
Wilayat Awabi is a place of eminent learning and has been home to many Omani scholars, poets and the literati. The Aliya region has stunning natural scenery with towering mountains and deep valleys. The Aja region is dotted with caves and secret passageways through the rocks, where ancient rock art and writing is carved into the walls. Precious metals are still worked into exquisite designs in Awabi; gold and silver jewellery is made in the traditional way, which is popular with locals and tourists alike.
The wilayat of Masn'a is located on the rich fertile plain of the Batinah Coast. It was once a popular market town and supplied many of the neighbouring wilayats with various commodities. Due to its many sana (industries), Masn'a received its name. Today, one of the main industries is cloth dying, using the indigo plant. Other industries include making red sugar, ship and boat building and sword making. Masn'a is one of the few wilayats which does not have any springs or afalaj - except the remains of an ancient one which was dug in the era of Imam Sultan bin Saif al Yar'ubi.
Barka is one of the historic cities on the coast of Oman which flourished during the Ya'aruba and the Bu Said dynasties. It was an area of export and received produce from the neighbouring wilayats to ship to India, Basra and East Africa. Reminders of the prosperity of these times include Al Na'man Fort, built by the Imam Saif bin Sultan al Ya'rubi (Qid al Ard), who planted 30,000 palm and coconut trees around its walls. Al Sayid Sultan bin Ahmad built the garrison headquarters of Bait al Falaj in the 19th century AD which is now the Armed Forces Museum
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The Sawadi region is home to some of the most beautiful long, white beaches in the north of the Sultanate and off this peninsula are the Dimaaniyat and Jun Islands, which host many migratory birds and breeding turtles. In breeding seasons, the islands are prohibited to the public to avoid disturbing the creatures.
Naseem Park is located on the outskirts of the wilayat and is adored by children for its playground, theme gardens, privet maze and model railway.

A'Dakhliyah Region

The Dakhliyah region, in the Interior of the Sultanate, plays a great historical role in the coming of Islam to Oman. At the heart of the region lies the wilayat of Nizwa, which was a sanctuary for scholars and jurists, and a stronghold for powerful leaders. Nizwa has been deemed the 'Pearl of Islam' due to its restoration of the Islamic beliefs to the country, its seats of Islamic learning and its schools of Islamic jurisprudence. From the adjacent wilayat of Sumail, Mazin bin Ghaduba, the Companion of the Prophet Mohammed, (Peace Be Upon Him) travelled to Mecca to embrace Islam. There are eight wilayats forming the Dakhliyah region.
Nizwa was host to the 24th National Day celebrations in 1994, held in the Youth Complex that is located in Seih al Kuds. The complex covers 443,000m2 and has capacity for 15,000 spectators. Nizwa is a diverse, prosperous area, which has many agricultural, historical, governmental and recreational aspects. Nizwa Fort, located in the town proper, is an imposing structure; 24m high, with an external diameter of 43m and an internal diameter of 39m. This was the headquarters of the ruler of Nizwa and was built by the Imam Sultan bin Saif bin Malik al Ya'rubi. With its connections to the root of Islam, Nizwa has a number of important mosques, such as Nizwa Mosque, a Friday mosque heralded as a 'beacon of science'; So'al Mosque, built in the 2nd century AH; and the Al Shawadhana Mosque which is located in the district of Aqr. The Nizwa souq is situated next to the fort and was renovated in the 1990's, costing RO2.5million. The souq covers an area of around 7600m2 and consists of separate buildings housing the likes of vegetables, fruits, meat, fish, dates, spices and handicrafts. The design of the souq compliments the fort in every way. It has been constructed using the same traditional materials, such as sarooj, a gypsum material which is burnt until it turns brown. In 1993, Nizwa won the 'Organisation of Arab Cities' award.

There are around 90 afalaj in the area, the most important being Falaj Daris. The Wadi Tanuf Dam, completed in 1989, is designed to increase the supply of subterranean water which feeds the afalaj of Daris and Tanuf. The increased supply has led to an expansion in the agricultural area. The dam is 135m long and is located on the watercourse of Wadi Tanuf which is famous in the Middle East for its mineral water.
Although Nizwa is a modern city, parts of the wilayat, in particular, the Jebel al Akhdar region are still inaccessible. The inhabitants of these areas receive provisions and building materials brought to them by the Armed Forces. There is also a 'flying doctor' who provides medical services.
Wilayat Sumail was home to Mazin bin Ghaduba, the first Omani to embrace Islam. He built the first mosque in Sumail, in 9th century AH which is known as the Mosque of Mazin. Sumail contains many wadis, some of which constitute the natural 'Sumail Gap' which divides the mountains into the Western Hajar and Eastern Hajar ranges. There are around 190 afalaj which meander around green oases and date plantations. Some of the best dates in Oman come from Sumail. There are a number of different date palms grown here: Naghal; Fardh; Handhal; Khanizi; Mabsali; and Khasab.

The wilayat of Bahla contains Bahla Fort, a recently restored building which has been listed by UNESCO on its list of World Heritage and Culture Sites. The wilayat is surrounded by a 15km wall. Also in the area is the imposing Jibreen Fort, built by Imam Bal'arb bin Sultan bin Saif Al Ya'rubi. Bahla's most famous industry is pottery making. Bahla pots are found in homes throughout the Sultanate and are a favourite souvenir with tourists. The pots are still made in the traditional manner. Intricate designs, some of which have been passed on through the generations and have local significance, are etched into the necks and bodies of these pots.
Adam is approximately 295km from Muscat and is the main entrance to the Dakhliyah from the south. Some say that the wilayat got its name from adim al ardth, which means 'surface of the earth', or 'fertile land located in the desert'. Archaeological exploration has revealed a number of significant sites, such as the mosques of Al Jam'aa al Mahlabiya bint al Mahlab bin Abi Sufra and Al Rugha. Legend and folklore surround this wilayat and stories are told time and again of 'Bani Rahu' - or 'the mosque which built itself'. The founder of the Al Bu Said Royal Family, Al Imam Ahmad bin Said, was born in Adam. His house still stands to this day. There are three springs in Adam, two at the foot of Jebel Salakh and the third located on the banks of Wadi Halfain.
Wilayat al Hamra is located in the northwest part of Jebel al Akhdar. Musafa al Abriin is an area of superb scenery, with agricultural terraces cut into the mountains, and the peak of Jebel Shams (mountain of the sun) soaring to 12,000ft. It is thought that the mountain received its name because, during its creation, it was first to receive the sun's rays in the morning and the last rays at dusk. Lemons, dates, roses and various vegetables are grown on the terraces.
Jebel al Akhdar is famous for its rose water and oil.
Rose oil is obtained by distillation of the petals and is highly prized. The oil is used in the Omani fragrance, Amouage - 'the most valuable fragrance in the world'.


The al Furs fort in the town of Ghul was besieged by Malik bin Fahm. Unable to withstand the onslaught, the fort's inhabitants fled to the mountains by the valley road, called Sanbak al Furs. This road is still rutted from the ancient wooden wheels which once traversed this route.
The wilayat of Manah is thought to be the first resting place of Malik bin Fahim al Azdi before the Arabs entered Oman when the Maa'rab Dam in Yemen broke. A falaj in Manah still bears his name. In the old town, there are many caves which were said to be hiding places during the war for women and children. There is also a subterranean vault located in one of the ancient houses in Al Fiqin. Legend surrounds the Az al Qadim mosque: it is said that a 100kg rock was moved by a visitor to the mosque, which he took with him on his travels south. The next day, upon waking, the man noticed the rock had gone, only to be found back in the mosque. The rock still lies in the mosque and has the imprint of a man's foot on it. Sultan Qaboos' Royal Camp for inspection of the region of Dakhliyah lies at Seih al Barakat in Manah.
Izki before the dawn of Islam was known as Jarnan because of an idol (awthan) which was worshipped in a cave under Hilal Nazar. It was a known meeting place for trade caravans and markets flourished. Testimony to its prosperous era is found in the number of archaeological features. There are 142 towers and three castles in the wilayat, together with ancient houses of historical importance, such as Al Nazar Wa al Yaman.
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